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This ramshackle, cafeteria-style Cajun place offers a wealth of simple pleasures, among them bacony black-eyed peas, moist corn bread and mashed potatoes yellow with butter. Thumbs up to the shrimp poor boy, with its rowdy mix of tastes and textures; ixnay, though, on the glutinous bread pudding.
Okay, so maybe I'm on a bit of a crab kick lately. But there's something about summer and crab that go together like summer and peaches, summer and tomatoes, summer and field peas. It's just one of t... More »
When you consider the amount of effort it takes to consume boiled crawfish, it's a wonder anyone still eats them. Getting your mudbug fix is much easier when someone does the work for you. The crawfish étouffée ($7.95) at the Zydeco Louisiana... More »
There are now two Zydeco diners -- one on Pease, the other on Travis -- and, as far as I'm concerned, that's not nearly enough. In a perfect world, there'd be dozens of Zydecos -- one of them right across the street from my house. You won't... More »
Although it bills itself as Cajun food from southern Louisiana, there's quite a bit of soul to this downtown institution. Since 1986, Zydeco has served up classic steam-table fare and Cajun favorites to a wide variety of downtown denizens: Cops, lawyers, construction workers and bankers all line up at lunch to get heaping portions of stewed okra, mashed potatoes, smothered pork chops and fried chicken. Further entrenching it in the splendid soul-food category are the offerings of sweet tea... More »
Hosting a group of Katrina evacuees last year, Zydeco quickly won them over with its stellar gumbo and red beans and rice. This joint can hang with most any Cajun place on the Gulf Coast. But what really packs in the business crowd every day are the divided plates heaped, cafeteria-style, with meat and sides. Aside from the excellent smothered pork chops and fried chicken, "meat" is construed in the liberal Cajun sense -- crawfish etouffee and chicken-and-sausage jambalaya, to be sure, but also c... More »
When you query the folks at Zydeco Louisiana Diner as to just why their mashed potatoes taste so good, they look at you quizzically and reply, "They're real." Duh. Of course they are. There's simply no way instant taters could provide such pleasure. Creamed soft but not so soft you don't find the occasional chunk of potato hidden inside, this godsend of a dish is finished off with lots of garlic and butter. Of course, the catfish and okra are great. But you really need only a large plate of... More »
'Taint nothing fancy about the cafeteria-style serving line, nothing surprising about the coon-ass doodads hanging on the wall, and nothing progressive about green beans swimming in cream of mushroom soup or fried catfish and stuffed pork chops. But then it's lunchtime, and you're not looking for fancy waiters and avant-garde decor and fusion cuisine. You're looking for a big hot lunch, properly spiced, with a chunk of corn bread -- jalapeņo or plain -- to sop the juices. The Zydeco delivers on ... More »
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