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Welcome to the real thing, an authentic yakitori joint with cheap food and no frills. It's a sure bet that every seat along the long counter will be taken. A small army of cooks works behind it, providing guests with a good view of their food being prepared. Squeeze through the narrow space, take a stool and start ordering. Grilled skewers are the name of the game: fatty chicken skin, chicken gizzards, shrimp, pork and cloves of garlic are just a few of the things you can eat off a stick. The fryer also gets a workout. Deep-fried squid legs, fried chicken and even fried tofu are available if you aren't too concerned about your cholesterol levels. Japanese classics like the okonomiyaki (a Japanese pancake with squid, shrimp and pork) and ramen noodles provide filling alternatives to grilled meat. Of course, a pitcher of Kirin or Sapporo is a must to complete the authentic yakitori experience.—Keith Wagstaff
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