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The sort of thing you don't really find in garden-variety Thai places is what Yai-located in the rear of a dingy Hollywood mini-mall, and as authentic a Thai restaurant as they come-calls roast pork with Chinese broccoli: fatty, crispy chunks of pigskin on a dark-green pile whose vegetable bitterness cuts through the richness like a knife. It looks something like a spinach salad, and fully half the customers here seem to have an order on their tables. The dish is bound together with enough garlic to induce a sweat in some people that will stay with them for days. There's a pungent, searing chile dip on the side. This dish is kind of a walk on the wild side for the Western palate.
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