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Six or seven food revolutions have washed over America since Nuevo Latino cuisine first posited the chicness of pupusas and llapingachos, and the heat these days is probably on Brazilian barbecue and pre-Columbian grains instead. And Xiomara Ardolina’s big-flavored, Cuban-inflected menus finally reveal her as a classicist instead of an insurrectionist, which probably fits the serene, elegant dining room better anyway.
Before it became a reconstructionist Cuban restaurant, before it moved to Melrose from Pasadena, Xiomara began as a sleekly modern California bistro, firmly grounded in modern French cooking. Now that Nuevo Latino cuisine has transformed into... More »
Photos by Anne FishbeinLos Angeles is a different kind of restaurant town, a city where the arty-looking guy across the room may actually be Dennis Hopper, where the presence of Ashton Kutcher may mean more than the presence of Wolfgang Puck... More »
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