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World-class dim sum awaits at World Tong. Arrive before 2 p.m. any day of the week to witness the unsurpassed parade of dumpling carts, which display pork with tree fungus wrapped in bean curd skin as wrinkly as an octogenarian's flesh, diaphanous and shimmering rice noodles stuffed with eye-poppingly large shrimp, and if you're lucky, mango pudding molded into a goldfish and sided with twin spears of ripe mango. Another "don't miss" is the bronze-skinned roast suckling pig, which comes arrayed on a bed of shredded leeks.
So what are some of the outer-borough places I'd recommend for the best dim sum? Foremost is World Tong, which sounds like the clubhouse of a comic-book band of superheroes. Anomalously located near the N-track trench in New Utrecht, World Tong prides itself in unusual dim sum, in addition to the expected har gow, cha siu bao, and chicken feet. Passing by on sparkling carts, you'll find tree fungus wrapped in bean curd skin, bronze-skinned suckling pig strewn with shredded leeks, and, for... More »
Over the last decade, dim sum has been moribund in the five boroughs. Now up steps WORLD TONG, a marble-clad Hong Kong pleasure palace, bizarrely located in Bensonhurst. The siu mai, har gow, and turnip cakes are delicate and scintillatingly fresh, and I guarantee you've never seen such large-size shrimp deployed in dim sum before. More »
For the past few years, New York has been in a dim sum slump. A decade ago, Chinatown palaces like Triple Eight and Golden Unicorn were churning out perfect har gow and shui mei for armies of diners, when suddenly, the dumplings became shrunken... More »
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