Description
Located down a narrow red staircase at the end of Mott Street, Wo Hop has served all-hours Cantonese fare since 1938 and is one of the city's great pilgrimage sites for late-night revelers. The restaurant has a subterranean diner vibe, tile and faux-granite illuminated in harsh fluorescence and walls covered in old photos and memorabilia. People come for the inexpensive, heaping portions of greasy comfort food, cuisine that's perhaps not as nuanced or authentic as the stuff served by some of Wo Hop's Chinatown neighbors, but there's an old-school atmosphere here and the food hits the spot. The egg foo young--a gravied dome of eggs chock full of meat and veggies--is a standout dish, as is the chow fun. The thick, wide noodles are the perfect vehicle for soy and the wok's flavor. The black bean sauce tastes great with squid and clams or just veggies, which is a testament to the fact that the menu isn't as overwhelming as it looks. In the age of Yelp, Wo Hop isn't the "insider's" gem it once was (as evidenced by all the teenagers running around wearing Wo Hop work t-shirts). If purists scoff at some of Wo Hop's more Americanized leanings, that's how the food has always been and that's part of Wo Hop's charm and legacy. It's best enjoyed with a Tsingtao in hand, no matter the hour. --Alex Spoto
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