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Wild Ginger, with locations Downtown and in Bellevue, was for many years located at the vanguard of Asian fusion cookery. But the kitchen's unwillingness to tinker with once-daring dishes has robbed the glitzy dining room of its vitality. The ossified menu recalls not the glamor and gall of 1990s pan-Asian experimentation, but the clumsiness of 1950s global cuisine. Popular post-war proteins of beef, lamb and duck are skewered, grilled, mollified with sweet sauces and served with airy pads of bao, white and bland as Wonder Bread. Still, the restaurant's tremendously popular with local eaters and visiting conventioneers: Expect to wait for a table.
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