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A sign at the front register of the Broiler explains its three-martini limit, clearly a necessary measure to counter the rowdiness and table dancing that might otherwise occur. Here you can order an ur-Atkins meal (a ground beef patty with cottage cheese and fruit) or a steak dinner. Notable sides include clam strips and delicious onion rings: Crunchy, golden, greasy, and in no need of ketchup. The broiled fish dishes are reliable, as are the hot-fudge sundaes. The Wedgwood Broiler, bless its heart, is the real McCoy. May it live at least as long as its septuagenarian regulars.
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