Description
Wylie Dufresne's Lower East Side gem still has what it takes to surprise and delight us. Two tasting menus are available these days—12 courses at $155 and five courses at $75. Go for the longer, newer tasting which includes beautiful dishes that show off Dufresne’s avant-garde style and technique, without compromising flavor. If you’re short on time (or cash), sit at the bar and choose any two plates for $25—may we suggest the pho gras, a mash-up of Vietnamese noodle soup and a classic French torchon, followed by the refreshing dessert of cucumber ice, chartreuse foam, and jasmine cream. Your best bet is the tasting menu ($140, plus $85 for the wine pairing), which features a parade of deconstructed dishes that will leave you both scratching your head and rubbing your belly. Everything is presented with minimalist flare: a ring of soft foie gras on a bed of Chinese celery, a miniature everything bagel (actually made of ice cream) set over bright orange salmon threads. The space itself, with its slick wooden details, modern art and lighting by contemporary artist Louis Mueller, is as up-to-date as the food. --Keith Wagstaff
