Description
With roots driven deeply off McKinney Avenue pavement more than 20 years ago, before the strip was a posh sliver of urbanity, Watel's has nobly clung to its French footing, even as other Dallas French culinary examples expired or shed their Gallic roots in the wake of the "freedom fries" onslaught. Now reanimated in the historic State-Thomas district in a Victorian-era cottage (creaky wood floors, French doors, glassed-in patio with good peers into the D skyline, musty cottage smell) and wreathed in green space after the "Uptown" gloss catapulted McKinney Avenue rents, Watel's is firmly wedged in environs as classic as its bistro fare. Its lithe escargots touched with Chardonnay, garlic and basil-are the best we've tasted. Pinkish slices of duck breast are tumbled, tangy dried cherries licked with ginger. Though the meat tends to be overcooked, pork medallions are bathed in a stirring swamp of green peppercorn and cognac sauce. And if it's barnyard innards you're after, Watel's is tops. You can nosh on calf brains in capers and lemon butter, grilled veal kidneys in grain mustard sauce, or soothingly rich sweetbreads in chive puree. Would you like calf fries with that?
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