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CLOSED A big, bold pan-Latin restaurant with a breathtaking design, clockwork service and dishes that are always satisfying, often excellent. The best dishes play with the contrast between savory and sharp - beef tenderloin served with succulent langostino tails in a bright garlic sauce; adobo-seasoned chicken perked up with a "ceviche" of avocado and corn - not to mention the subtle interplay between sweet and earthy in the crab-spinach enchiladas. The wine list features an impressive array of South American wines, including a section devoted to malbec, and desserts are worth saving room for - an important point to remember, considering the generous entrée portions.
Gut Check continues to roll out new features. I previewed two of them last week. In this week's column, a sneak peek at three more. First is Chef's Choice, in which regular Gut Check contributor Robin Wheeler profiles a St. Louis chef while he... More »
The huapango is a traditional song and dance native to Mexico's southeastern coast. In the July 1942 issue of California Folklore Quarterly, Jean B. Johnson wrote, "The verses of the huapango are sung while a vigorous, stamping, heel-and-toe... More »
Tired of shrimp cocktail, grilled salmon and crab cakes chock-full o' filler? Shake up your seafood routine at this pan-Latin restaurant. A ceviche of ahi tuna will spark your taste buds with its mixture of tart lime, fresh tuna, coconut milk, pickled onions and cilantro. Tired of tuna? There's also a ceviche featuring the fresh fish of the day. Fans of mollusks will rejoice: You can enjoy mussels in a coconut-chili broth, or you can have mussels and scallops -- as well as shrimp and... More »
Even before you step inside the front door, you know Wapango won't be anything like the shopping mall that surrounds it: Spheres streaked with glowing light sit outside the restaurant's patio. Inside, a strange picket fence-like structure cuts a large swath across the massive space. Behind the picket fence is a row of invitingly cushy booths, behind those a dining area with a soaring ceiling. Whatever you notice first, the dim light and autumnal colors, warm reds and golds, will soothe you.... More »
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