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A gastronomic spectacle wrought in tiny plates, Wann in Downtown reinterprets the traditional bar-snack fare of Japanese izakayas with pink seaweed and spun-sugar garnishes. The place is gorgeous, especially if you're sitting in one of the booths that appear to be floating over a rock garden. The food is gorgeous, too, and ranges from bowls of green beans covered in sesame paste and feathery bonito flakes to cast-iron hot pots that you cook at the table. However, quality is erratic (greasy tempura, nonsensical East-West combinations like fried chicken smothered in tartar sauce), making every meal resemble a Spielberg film: sometimes good, sometimes bad, always compelling. However, you can't go wrong with a cocktail called the Pink Godzilla.
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