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The long line snaking out the front door tells the story: This combo Cantonese charcuterie and Fujianese steam table joint provides the best cheap meal in Chinatown. Three selections over a mountain of rice preceded by a cup of thin consommé costs around $2.75. We chose chicken curry, stewed green squash with egg sauce, and a gravied stir-fry of bean curd skin. But don't ignore the wonderful meat and fowl dripping on their meat hooks-the two-meats-over-rice platter (pick chicken, pork, duck, or suckling pig) is also a phenomenal deal. Just make sure you ask for the salty green-onion relish.
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