Description
Thomas Soukakos' colorful, affordable neighborhood gathering spot isn't like the Greek restaurants of our nightmares—greasy moussaka, chalky feta cheese. Instead, Greek is more its emotional core than its culinary evocation. The succulent pastitsio is a baked pasta layered with a spicy meat sauce and rich bechamel sauce, while the fennel-braised pork sandwich is subtle and overpowering at once. Order Greek wines by the glass, or pick an inexpensive bottle from the rack and pay retail plus $10 corkage. Bonus feature: a play area for kids.
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