Vincenti Ristorante

• Cuisine(s): Italian
  Hours: Mon-Sat 5:30pm-10pm, Fri 12pm-2pm
  Price: $$$
• Payment Types: MasterCard, Visa, American Express
  Features: Takeout, Private Party, Business Dining, Prix Fixe
  Serving: Dinner, Lunch
• Alcohol: Full bar
  Reservations: Accepted, Recommended
  Parking: Street, Valet

Description

Valentino may be grander than Vincenti, La Terza flashier and Giorgio Baldi may draw a more famous clientele, but Vincenti feels like the spiritual center of fine Italian cooking in Los Angeles, its hearth. And befitting a hearth, much of Nicola Mastronardi's food comes from the big, hardwood-burning ovens, flavored with the presence of smoke, forests, stone chimneys and chilly afternoons - a scallop, say, sprinkled with bread crumbs and baked in its shell until it sizzles; a magnificent veal chop; soft curls of cuttlefish tucked into an herb salad; a whole, truffle-laced squab. The adjacent rotisserie turns out the best restaurant version of porchetta I have ever tasted in California - loin and belly are wrapped into a spiral, seasoned with fennel and spit-roasted to a crackling, licorice-y succulence. It is certainly possible to eat several mediocre Italian meals elsewhere in this neighborhood for the price of a single superb one here. At these times, it is good to remember that on Monday nights, pizza also comes out of these ­ovens.