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Closed late in 2005 for real estate reasons, this old favorite has moved around the corner from its original Park Avenue South digs and reopened with a spacious modern dining room that owes a little too much to Ikea. The food, however, remains fantastic, from the gnocco fritters served with prosciutto to the chunks of parmesan drizzled with balsamic to the tortellini in brodo, all reflecting the culinary heritage of Emilia-Romagna. Thrill to a selection of 14 reasonably priced lambruscos, then use them to wash down your choice of three tortollonis, which are like tortellinis on steroids. Altogether, Via Emilia remains one of the choicest and most reasonably priced Italians in town.
In "Scenes from an Italian Restaurant," the Long Islander sings: "I'll meet you any time you want/In our Italian restaurant." We think it only fair that we invite him to one of ours instead, since we don't trust his taste in food. At the relocated and still exemplary Via Emilia, the emphasis is on the food of Modena in Emilia-Romagna, including the amazing gnocchi with prosciutto. The former is a hot puffy fritter. Like Mr. Joel, the latter is a ham. More »
"This doesn't look like an Italian restaurant," my companion noted as I hunkered down on the red, wall-hugging banquette which ran the entire length of the L-shaped room and she took the modernistic plastic chair opposite me. The wall was painted... More »
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