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Don't be fooled by the gratis basket of chips and plastic bowl of salsa (the salsa is actually quite good, loaded with tomato, fresh cilantro and garlic, and enriched with oil), or the enchiladas plates, either. Veracruz Cafe is not a Tex-Mex restaurant. Not even close. Seafood dominates the menu influenced by the coastal state of Veracruz, in this small cafe, tucked into a corner storefront in the Bishop Arts District. Don’t miss the Sopa de Atlahua, a hearty bowl of stew, distantly reminiscent of the French bouillabaisse and loaded with scallops, tilapia and shrimp. For $13.50, the kitchen is quite generous. Fish tacos make use of boring tilapia, but offer large single pieces of well-seasoned and well-cooked fish. Enchiladas can be had, too, all wrapped in the cafe’s trademark blue-corn tortillas. If you’re into boiling, melted cheese, order the Queso Fundido Tamiahua, with chorizo over chicken, but only if you have a support team to help you finish or are prepared to take a lot of queso home.
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