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As part of the Southern food craze, pimento cheese has been popping up on menus all over the city. Rightly so: The cheddary, mayonnaisey, red peppery spread rocks! Never had it? Try it plain or topped with bacon and lettuce at Van Horn, a new, sparsely decorated, laid-back eatery in Cobble Hill devoted to down-home sammys. You won't be sorry. However, the other options--including the signature fried chicken and the cornmeal-crusted fish--prove less successful, burdened by too much bread. Simple sides (roasted beets, sautéed kale, etc.) also fail to wow.
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