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There are many shareable pleasures to be found on the extensive menu of Basque tapas. There are three main categories: Basque canapés (pintxos), cold items (hotzak), and hot items (beroak). In the canapé family, we loved txitxiki, a fat-cigar-sized sandwich of crusty bread stuffed with homemade chorizo hash. And you can't do better than the arraultza - crostini topped with sofrito, shards of chorizo, and a quivering, sunny-side-up quail egg. Of the hot items, go for bakailoa: a house-cured salt cod sliced very thin, topped with dice-sized nuggets of breaded, fried headcheese that crunches and then gushes pork fat and gelatin under your teeth. Order a bunch of tapas to share, but avoid the expensive nightly specials unless you're rolling in dough.
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At first glance, the bakalao al pil pil at Txikito is just an unassuming hunk of Basque salt cod, with about the same dimensions and pearlescent hue of a bar of soap. But the simplicity of its presentation makes it that much easier to focus on what's really important here, which is the way the fish's buttery flesh (poached in olive oil) yields effortlessly to the fork's slightest provocation and then slides down the throat, leaving the taste of olive oil and the sea in its wake. Salt cod has... More »
Headcheese, that glorious loaf of Jell-O-like, fatty, and lush pork yielded from a long-boiled pig's head, has been used to good effect all around the city this past year, whether in a high-end, quivering incarnation at Bar Boulud, or as a rich swath of pig tucked into a banh mi in Sunset Park's Chinatown. The most satisfying headcheese this year can be found at Txikito, in the Basque dish called "bakailoa": house-cured salt cod sliced very thin, topped with diced nuggets of breaded and... More »
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