Description
Twenty Five Lusk is situated at one of San Francisco's newest vortexes of power - the neighborhood where Internet money, baseball money, and biotech money intersect - and the luxury it imparts is sleek and masculine. In the downstairs lounge, new money clusters around stainless-steel, floating fireplaces, drinking cocktails on the fruity side of classic and ordering bar bites by the cluster. Chef Matthew Dolan's upstairs dinner menu is seasonal and intricate, and where the hipster class of chefs thrills to devices and DIY, Dolan composes his plates in a classic idiom spelled out in veal-stock reduction sauces and creamy beurres blancs. Is it solid? Yes. Is it wonderful? That may depend on whether you're there for an expense-account dinner or the love of gastronomy (in which case, no).
