Tuyo

• Cuisine(s): Caribbean, Regional
  Hours: Wed-Sat 6pm-10:30pm
  Price: $$$$ $$$$
  Payment Types: All Major Credit Cards
• Attire: Dressy Casual
  Features: Banquet Facilities, Catering, Kid Friendly, Multi-Level, Patio/Sidewalk Dining, Water View, Wheelchair Accessible
  Serving: Dinner
  Alcohol: Full bar
• Reservations: Accepted, Required
  Parking: Lot Available, Valet

Description

After a brief elevator ride to the top floor of the new Miami Culinary Institute, diners entering Tuyo are instantly captivated by the sweeping view of the city skyline and Biscayne Bay afforded by dramatically framed floor-to-ceiling windows. Even without the celestial vista, the dining room would be deemed lovely. The star inside is Norman Van Aken. His concise playlist here is a compilation of past hits interspersed with newer creations. "First plates" include conch chowder "Brazilian"-style; a salad of local lettuces with heirloom tomato, avocado, roasted beets, pepitas, blue cheese, and sherry dressing; and anywhere from four to six appetizers. They include the old Van Aken signature "My Down Island French toast, with curaçao-scented foie gras, grilled brioche, gingery candied lime zest, and a savory passionfruit caramel" -- still crazy after all these years (in a good way). Best bet among the new starters is an oyster pan stew with Béarnaise sauce and black trumpet mushrooms embracing briny, barely simmered, juice-swelled Fanny Bays. A delectable main course of grilled pompano Vietnamese-style with baby limas and sea urchin butter shows that the famous chef isn't just resting on his laurels. Chicken mofongo brings a more Van Aken-esque medley of black beans, sweet plantain fufu, and sugarcane moonshine chutney -- lively support for a juicy, tender Lake Meadow bird. The average cost of a starter is $17, and that of an entrée is $34; desserts are $10. For this money, there are too many selections on the small menu that are not as good as they should be. And for this money, service really needs to improve. That said, Van Aken remains a local culinary icon. If you are one of the many longtime fans of his New World fusion or have never tried it, Tuyo is the only place (and a pretty place) to do so.