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::In the process of moving to 645 Larkin. Will reopen April 1, 2013:: Thanks to the popularity of this spare, modest restaurant, half of San Francisco now gets the difference between northern and southern pho: That southern pho has the clear, light broth with those sweetish overtones of star anise and cinnamon, while the broth in Hanoi-style pho bo is less spiced up and tricked out. Order Turtle Tower's dac biet (house special), and the broth, deep brown and slightly murky, tastes like it's been simmering and intensifying for hours, with the creamy echo of bone underneath the big-beef flavor. The chicken pho has the depth and potency of a Jewish grandmother's (but with better noodles). A squirt of lime juice and a spoonful of chile paste are all the garnishes you're provided, or need.
We grew up in a family where meat in some form was the biggest slab of whatever appeared on the nightly dinner plate. Pork chops breaded and fried to a challenging state of stiffness, Swiss steak, sau... More »
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