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A fedora, or maybe even spats, wouldn't look out of place in Tulio's handsome 1920s-era dining room. The food is far more contemporary. An Italian eyebrow might tilt at smoked salmon ravioli with lemon cream or grilled calamari with spicy Tuscan Rice beans and a parsley aioli, but chef Walter Pisano treats his ingredients harmoniously. Meats may come out overcooked; pastas and risottos, never. This is food even society matrons would unclench their jaws for, served in a room that makes its guests feel like they're richer than their bank accounts would attest.
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