Tulcingo #4

This unprepossessing Astoria storefront is so much more than what it appears to be: It contains a pharmacy, grocery, and social center, with the usual menu of Mexican tacos, tortas, and tostados. But glimpses of the gyrating kitchen staff and an examination of the signs hand-scrawled in Spanish reveal a more ambitious menu of Central Mexican regional fare. Foremost was adobo de puerco con nopales, a searingly red stew of short ribs and cactus, and barbacoa, a regular weekend special of goat steamed with chiles and other seasonings, both served with orange rice, refried beans, and a half-dozen warm tortillas.

• Cuisine(s): Mexican, Spanish

  Hours: Daily 6am-2am

  Price: $

• Payment Types: All Major Credit Cards

  Features: Delivery, Takeout

  Serving: Breakfast, Dinner, Late Night, Lunch

• Reservations: Accepted, Not Necessary

  Parking: No Parking