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Meng Tang's noodle joint operates in a fevered state of controlled chaos. It is an unapologetic dive. You're liable to step on scraps of food as you walk through the place or get bumped by the busboy's cleaning cart when you're seated. Most often, if you come alone or are in a small party, you will be asked to share a table with strangers. All will be slurping the hu tieu nam vang, noodles swimming in a marvelous, soul-nourishing, golden nectar wrung from the bones of bird and hog. MSG is probably involved as a flavor enhancer, but so are floating bits of fried garlic that explode in bursts.
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Are you squeamish? A germophobe? If your answer to either question is yes, then forget about even setting foot in Trieu Chau in Santa Ana. When we use the word "dive" here, we mean it. The floor will likely have pieces of food on it. Also, the place is so cramped that you're probably--no, scratch that--you will most certainly get bumped by the busboys' cleaning cart. And when you come alone, you will be seated at a communal table to eat with strangers. One of... More »
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