Description
Stepping up to the locavore challenge, Trellis' chef, Brian Scheehser, farms a three-acre patch of land that provides him with a quarter of his fruits and vegetables (such as a "two-hour salad" whisked from farm to table). The restaurant fights back commendably against its setting—a chi-chi hotel on a heavily-trafficked Kirkland street. Even as halogen car headlamps rake across the room, even as other diners attend to their BlackBerrys, the plate commands your attention. Delicate Pink Lady apple shavings nicely punctuate a blue-cheese salad starter; a tomato soup holds its texture, with enough bite to make pepper superfluous; and a pan-seared salmon with an apple glacé is a marquee dish.
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