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Complex, satisfying flavors are presented with aesthetic panache in this friendly upscale trattoria. Most of the winning dishes are concentrated among the starters and the desserts. While the entrees aren't quite so inspired, the setting is flatiron North Beach at its most classic. The Italianate wine list is well stocked and expensive.
For several years I indulged in a hobby both personally enriching and fiscally exorbitant: the creation of elaborate, sit-down ethnic meals. I had gotten hold of the Time-Life Foods of the World series of cookbooks, 27 volumes of... More »
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