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Owned by the same fellas who own two Alfredo of Romes--one here and one in Rome--Trattoria Cinque ("Bistro Five") is the latest of several boites to try to reproduce the exalted cuisine of Italy's capital. It partly succeeds. Though the cooking is consistently good, and the portions generous, the place hedges its bets by offering food from all over Italy, throwing in some Italian-American stuff, too, as if we wouldn't realize what they were up to. That said, the pastas are the best things on the menu, including paccheri carbonara (short, tubular noodles) and ricotta dumplings called malfatti. The gorgonzola and pear pizza makes a super starter, and tastes much better than its sounds.
Lately, we've seen a spate of restaurants seeking to imitate Roman trattorias. Obika re-created a famous mozzarella-themed wine bar in the soaring lobby of Midtown's IBM building, while Quinto Quarto built out a small storefront in the West... More »
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