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The latest incarnation of the restaurant which launched the careers of such Seattle culinary luminaries as John Sundstrom and Maria Hines, the W's dining room feels oddly dated. But the ostentatious decor doesn't detract from the passable sushi and Northwest-ish big plates (what the two menus are doing in the same place, only the W's head honchos know) as powerfully as the poor service. Overrun by business travelers needing a drink, the restaurant would benefit mightily from a host stand.
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