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Tonti's does not do a standard New York thin-crust pizza. The crust here has been allowed to rise slightly, the bone swelling to at least a blistered inch high. The sauce is sweet, East Coast-style, and the mozzarella cheese a delicious jacket melted thick and unevenly across the slightly chewy crust. Topped with a shake of parmesan cheese, this pie is a revelation. Tonti's does more than just pizza, but why go for anything else?
Last week, I got stuck in three "best pizza in blahblahblah" discussions. One was a drunken confession. One was a declarative statement: If I didn't agree that this was the best pizza ever made, I was some kind of idiot. And one was almost a... More »
Tonti's is an enigma. It's a tiny strip-mall joint, almost always empty except for a couple of employees hanging disconsolately around the counter. And while about half the time what we get off the short, predictable menu (pizzas, calzones, stromboli, meatball sandwiches) is completely forgettable, the other half it's fantastic beyond any rational explanation. At its best, Tonti's makes the kind of stromboli you just can't stop eating, the kind of New York-style pizzas that wake you up in... More »
A great pizza folded in half is a great calzone. And what's better than a great calzone? A great stromboli -- essentially a pizza that's been involved in a high-speed collision with a fast-moving Italian sandwich, with the resulting mess folded up like a calzone and baked. Tonti's stromboli is a huge pocket of baked pizza dough, stuffed with deli meats and cheeses (including a good dose of mozzarella), then served with a side of excellent red sauce. Eating one isn't quite as convenient as... More »
Every neighborhood needs a neighborhood Italian joint, particularly one as good as Tonti's. From the outside, there's nothing special about this strip-mall spot, nothing that separates it from the hundreds of also-rans plugging away night after night. You could drive by it a hundred times and never give it a second look. But if you do happen to drop in, Tonti's will quickly become your default choice for every lazy Tuesday, every family night with the kids, every quiet Friday when you don't... More »
Who'd think that a tiny Italian eatery in Parker would offer the area's best version of New York-style pizza? There's no question, though, that Tonti's makes the real thing: a drippy pie with a sweet, sweet sauce, thin, crackery crust and enough cheese that each bite creates a string that could stretch from one end of the restaurant to the other. It's tempting to order this pizza by the slice, so that you can eat it the way New Yorkers do: folding it in half and letting orange-colored oil... More »
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