Description
This Clinton Hill bistro right on busy Fulton Street manages to playfully twist the dishes in its French agenda to near-unrecognizability -- and that's not a bad thing. The classic moules frites turns into a cheeseless moules poutine, beef turns into pork in pork bourguignon, and, for vegans and vegetarians, chicken fricassee turns into seitan fricassee, with the spongy gluten doing quite well with its sweetish brandy glaze. Whatever you do, don't miss the fries, which are some of the best in Brooklyn. Other menu highlights at Three Leaves include a chicken St. James with a sauce tasting powerfully of garlic, a “crudisson” of snapper or sea-bass sashimi with nettle sauce, and a series of baguette sandwiches, one of which impersonates a Vietnamese banh mi. There are exotic cocktails of course, draft locavoric beers, and bottles of wine in the $30 to $40 range, but the California tap wine is the way to go. The room is a rhomboid, decorated with deep blue tiles and French movie posters. --Robert Sietsema
