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Three Drunken Goats is an enormous dark-wood dining room in a former wine store on the Smalltown U.S.A. main drag of Montrose: open kitchen, racks of wine bottles and ESPN on a flat-screen TV. The restaurant is named for the common translation of the Spanish cheese cabra al vino, a goat cheese marinated in lees-fortified wine. Of course, cabra al vino is one of the cheeses on the restaurant's all-Spanish list, which goes with the all-Spanish menu and the all-Spanish wine list: dozens of Priorats and Jumillas, Riojas and cavas available by the taste, the glass and the bottle. Coins of Spanish chorizo find their way into a truly delicious plate of grilled octopus, as well as in a predictably soupy shellfish paella. A cazuela-full of stewed judias beans supports disks of Spanish blood sausage and pillowy-soft chunks of braised pork belly. There are roasted piquillo peppers stuffed with Basque cheese, the inevitable bacon-wrapped dates and grilled lamb chops with mint. The small plates, mostly priced from $5 to $15, can add up to a substantial check if you're not careful. But there's caution, and then there are freshly fried churros served with a demitasse of melted bitter chocolate.
The march of the wine bars continues, small plates and boutique vintages, glasses of Bourguiel and Bierzo sneaking into neighborhoods where Sonoma Chardonnay may have been exotic just a few months ago. Perhaps the largest wine bar to open in the... More »
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