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It's hard to imagine an eatery more enduring than this 24-hour joint a block off Denny Way. Coins now has a remodeled lounge that is sure to please the Friday-after-work crowd of Seattle Times staffers and others from South Lake Union offices, but the rest of the place is intact: the decades-old menu of steak, pasta, and seafood; the dining-room counter with high-back swivel stools in front of the grill; the ceiling-high booths where ordinary folks out past bedtime and the occasional pro jock can find a discreet place to eat at any hour. After midnight, it's the nicest place in town.
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