Description
Yvon Goetz used to be the chef at David Wilhelm's long-defunct but excellent Chat Noir. Goetz was the reason it was excellent. Now at his own place, Goetz gets even more creative and daring. His menu changes routinely, but a signature Alsatian pizza is always a staple. In it, gruyere, creme fraiche, onion and bacon fuse so well into a crisp flatbread rectangle it seems insufficient to just call it a pizza. Oysters are paired with a mignonette--as well as Tabasco, if you ask. A new English pea has spoonful after spoonful of lump crab meat, so rich that every sip must equal to one pat of butter. The halibut with clam entrée manages to be simultaneously froufrou and down-home at the same time. A roster of steaks comes with the sides à la carte, served onto your plate by obsequious wait-staff wearing vests. They'll pour sauces from dainty gravy boats and grind pepper from a ridiculously oversized mill, too. Yes, it's that kind of place--all dark and romantic with high-backed, leather-clad chairs; cozy, soft booths; and a decently talented live band should your feet get restless. You also notice there's a high concentration of signed Angels memorabilia the closer you get to the restroom. And your fellow diners are a weird mix of the casual, T-shirted dudes and the wine-twirling types who rent bottle lockers. Which one are you?
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