There is a severely enforced and unwritten law of the California board of tourism that there must be at least one person in the Pacific Ocean at all times. Since surfers will do anything to the point of poverty to be in the water, they have become the minions of this government money-making scheme. Because of the severity of punishment, there is someone surfing at the best surf spots in California--all except one, the one the old salty nuts speak about but only amongst themselves unless... More »
