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The River opened downtown in 2003, but because of the wear-and-tear of constant business, it looks as though it's always been there. A long row of French patio doors fronts the exterior; a curved bar running parallel to the windows centers the interior, with dining sections to each side. The room to the left is larger and airier, but the whole arena is welcoming in a downtown-urban -- and neighborly -- way. Fresh oysters are lined up in a bin of ice along the mahogany-and-slate bar, but much of the jam-packed action up front seems to be effusively booze-oriented. Numerous house cocktails are proffered, along with craft beers and an eclectic, well-priced wine list of some 250 labels. The oyster selection changes but usually includes eight to ten types. Raw bar items extend beyond oysters to include dishes such as Peruvian ceviche, snapper tartare with wasabi tobiko, and a ceviche-like Caicos conch salad. Some of the seafood entrées are overdressed in a manner that masks rather than magnifies the freshness of fish. But diners have the option of going simple: All fish come grilled, steamed, or pan-seared with a choice of lemon butter, mango chutney, salsa verde, or Scotch bonnet vinaigrette. Points of origin are posted on the menu, like black grouper from Nicaragua, yellowfin tuna from Trinidad, and snapper, mahi-mahi, and swordfish snared from Florida waters. Finish with coconut layer cake: multiple layers of coconut-rum-soaked pound cake and vanilla pudding topped with soft, bronzed meringue icing and toasted coconut flakes.
Get half-price oysters on the half-shell while washing them down with $3 draft beer or $5 wines and well drinks.
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