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At Harrah's dinner-only steakhouse, one doesn't have to bet the farm in order to enjoy a first-class meal. The deécor is inspired by the Southwest, but the menu reflects an old-fashioned East Coast beef emporium, offering fare rarely seen in modern steakhouses — including a gigantic 22-ounce porterhouse and a 16-ounce chateaubriand for two. There's also a juicy Kansas City strip, a filet mignon, a fine rack of lamb and, for those with big-game tastes, a thick elk chop. All of the entrées include the well-laden salad bar or a Caesar salad, bread, vegetable and potato, so happily fed patrons will feel they've saved enough to stroll over to the casino and drop a few coins in the slots.
No, you don't have to be a high roller to enjoy the meat at the dark, quiet steakhouse inside the bustling Harrah's Casino, although high rollers do often eat there — using their comp credits. For the nongambling contingent, the 16-ounce, traditional-cut Kansas City strip isn't just tender and loaded with flavor. It's a pretty good deal, too. Unlike the snootier steak palaces around town, the Range includes a Caesar or a trip to the well-stocked salad bar and two side dishes (baked potato, steamed asparagus, sautéed baby spinach, gruyere potatoes au gratin) with the cost of this steak (about $30). There's also good service, stiff cocktails and delicious desserts, which add up to a winning combination. The dining room is far enough from the casino floor that patrons don't hear all the bells and whistles from the slot machines but close enough to be a siren's lure once you step out of the Range and into the bright lights at the casino entrance. What you stake at the gaming tables is a completely different story.
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