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A converted burger joint saturated with the smell of wood smoke, red roof gleaming in the late-afternoon sun, Oinkster is the child of Max chef André Guerrero, a perfected fast-food restaurant, the old-school paradigm of pastrami, burgers and chicken reinvented for a age when a remodeled hamburger hut can be enjoyed for its stark loveliness and nobody thinks it odd that a famous chef might seek an apprenticeship with a revered deli counterman, in this case Norm Langer. “Slow fast food,” proclaims the sign outside: smoky Carolina-style pulled-pork sandwiches, chopped salad, and fast-food-style Angus-beef hamburgers with sweet house-made catsup. He roasts chickens on a creaky rotisserie and smokes his own pastrami. Would you be willing to pay a couple dollars extra to experience artisanal soda pop, purplish Fosselman's-based ube milkshakes and other fast food with a chefly edge? Guerrero is betting that you are. With all of the above, of course, it is necessary to have an order of Belgian fries, fried twice to leave them light and hot, their fluffy potato essence encased in a stiff, perfectly golden capsule of crunch. Slow-cooked fast food. See full review.
Andre Guerrero has covered enough mileage at restaurants across Los Angeles that your immediate association of the chef is it's own a litmus test for Angelenos. Millennials will recognize The Oinkster... More »
March Madness just started, and whether you spent much too much time filling out your bracket or gave up and just let Nate Silver take the wheel, you probably could use a place with beer and maybe eve... More »
In the lunch line at Oinkster, men and women with copious neck and hand tattoos mingle with guys in suits. Across two tables, a biker, wearing a T-shirt printed with that infamous Johnny Cash middle-finger photo, talks to two L.A. County sheriffs... More »
Even the most experienced restaurateurs still listen to friends' advice. Such is the case with Andre Guerrero and his plans to expand The Oinkster brand to a second location, which will occupy the for... More »
Andre Guerrero can't imagine living anywhere other than Los Angeles. Save for his earliest years in the Philippines and a couple spent in San Francisco when his family initially moved to the United St... More »
Oinkster seems to have started the slow fast food craze. There fresh ingrediants are defiantly the highlight at Oinkster. I use to go about twice a week during there happy hour for the burger and fry combo. That all ended when Guy and triple D showed up in June of 09. I've only been back three times since. The burger I had last week still tastes great(don't expect Umami, this is classic American backyard bbq style) but the garlic aioli fry sauce is defiantly still there best thing. The purple UBU shake(UBU is a yam) tastes so so and seems like more of a novelty to me. Most of the condiments are made in house, including a Carolina bbq sauce that tasts like straight vinegar.
We are living in an age not just of cupcakes but of cupcakes with publicists, exquisitely art-directed confections whose geometric decoration owes less to Betty Crocker than to Josef Albers. Cupcake manufacture seems to occupy the midlife-crisis Plan Bs that used to be reserved for interior decoration or jewelry design. Eat them, arrange them prettily on a conference room table, mount them on the wall — it really makes no difference. The cupcakes in the display case at the Eagle Rock hamburger stand Oinkster, Andre Guerrero's shotgun marriage of fast-food culture and classic French technique, look like examples of the new breed: pretty, swirly, just lumpy enough to give a Gourmet cover a peppy summer look. It is easy to imagine a box of the carrot-cake cupcakes sitting uneaten on a Stickley sideboard until they eventually stale, or the sticky, snowy coconut cupcakes at a society lunch with precisely one bite taken out of each. But Guerrero is neither a corporate lawyer nor a party planner with a truck-tire-size Rolodex — he's a chef. So the fluffy peanut-butter-and-jelly cupcakes taste like peanut butter and jelly, and those dense, cream-cheese-frosted carrot cupcakes would probably also be the best carrot cake in town if they happened to compete in that category too.—Jonathan Gold
We are living in an age not just of cupcakes but of cupcakes with publicists, exquisitely art-directed confections whose geometric decoration owes less to Betty Crocker than to Josef Albers. Cupcake manufacture seems to occupy the midlife-crisis Plan Bs that used to be reserved for interior decoration or jewelry design. Eat them, arrange them prettily on a conference room table, mount them on the wall -- it really makes no difference. The cupcakes in the display case at the Eagle Rock... More »
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