Description
A converted burger joint saturated with the smell of wood smoke, red roof gleaming in the late-afternoon sun, Oinkster is the child of Max chef André Guerrero, a perfected fast-food restaurant, the old-school paradigm of pastrami, burgers and chicken reinvented for a age when a remodeled hamburger hut can be enjoyed for its stark loveliness and nobody thinks it odd that a famous chef might seek an apprenticeship with a revered deli counterman, in this case Norm Langer. “Slow fast food,” proclaims the sign outside: smoky Carolina-style pulled-pork sandwiches, chopped salad, and fast-food-style Angus-beef hamburgers with sweet house-made catsup. He roasts chickens on a creaky rotisserie and smokes his own pastrami. Would you be willing to pay a couple dollars extra to experience artisanal soda pop, purplish Fosselman's-based ube milkshakes and other fast food with a chefly edge? Guerrero is betting that you are. With all of the above, of course, it is necessary to have an order of Belgian fries, fried twice to leave them light and hot, their fluffy potato essence encased in a stiff, perfectly golden capsule of crunch. Slow-cooked fast food. See full review.
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