Description
The Marrow is Harold Dieterle’s third Greenwich Village restaurant, joining his previous efforts Perilla and Kin Shop. You remember him – he was the champ of Top Chef’s first season. While the first two dabbled in Asian fusion, and nouvelle Thai, respectively, this restaurant explores the chef’s German (his father) and Italian (his mother) heritage. Oddly, a single column of dishes is assigned to each parent, and Dieterle obviously enjoys riffing on the culinary influences each represents. Among the most successful items, there’s a wonderful long marrow bone topped with orange sea urchin and baby celery sprouts, a dense beef roulade stuffed with cheese and deposited in thick tomato sauce, and a superb duck schnitzel so fresh and perfectly fried it might still be quacking. Pastry chef Ginger Fisher does her part to make a meal at the Marrow memorable, and her ginger stout cake is not to be missed. --Robert Sietsema
