Description
Having taken over half the luxury-hotel restaurants in London and become a television star in both England and the United States, Gordon Ramsay expanded his brand to New York and now to Los Angeles. His new restaurant, the London West Hollywood, is kind of a steam-punk take on a '70s disco lounge, fitted out with brass and mirrors, and the menu is a riff on the small-plates style of restaurant, priced relatively gently for this level of dining room at $16-$22. The pig's head is very good, crackly skin and fat formed into something resembling a Mars bar. The foie gras custard garnished with fried ducks' tongues worked well as a Lucullan conceit. But most of Ramsay's food is not just timid but timid in a specifically Californian way, as if he were convinced that half-hearted swipes at Mediterranean dishes (rabbit with tomato and basil, seafood stew with tortellini and chickpeas) and pan-Asian fare (Arctic char with dashi, honey- and soy-lacquered quail) were just what Californians have been pining for.
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