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Here is the quintessential Silver Lake canteen. Its former subtitle “Lunch to Late Night” reflects the circadian rhythms of its neighborhood clientele. The interior is Early East Village — deep colors, battered tables, crumbling cement, loud music. The service tends toward the casual and offhand, which belies the big-hearted food. Try a bowl of quite viable cioppino.
For over a decade NOW, there’s been a trend for new restaurants to offer up old-style comfort foods: mashed potatoes and meat loaves and fruit crumbles meant to evoke the family meals of our collective memory of the time when Mom was doing the... More »
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