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Questions, questions. Why can't all food taste this good? If a single family can turn out seven kinds of bread, each more pillowy, buttery, fragrant, and delicately spiced than the last, what the hell is going on at other restaurants? The puri, chapati, roti, and naan at India Palace is made daily. It soaks up those creamy, cashew- and yogurt-infused sauces around your chicken, lamb, or fish to make what must be the world's most perfect meal. Why hasn't the masala dosa, a transparent crepe made with rice and lentil flour, rolled around a slathering of curried potatoes and paired with a dipping sauce of cool green coconut, coriander, and green chili chutney - why hasn't this magical snack become America's national dish? And how is it our thirsty tropical populace has escaped becoming addicted to the mango lassi, a beverage far smoother, richer, and sweeter than any franchised smoothie?
A memorable New Yorker cartoon: Couple sitting at a restaurant table. Woman says to her companion, "If I go for the bread, stab my hand." There's no denying the stuff at India Palace — it comes straight out of the tandoor, steaming and fragrant with ginger, cumin, and coriander, or as puffs of warm air bounded by gossamer crusts, and goes into a "mixed basket" ($5.99) — puri, roti, chapati, naan, all glistening with ghee. Or as aloo paratha, a pillow stuffed with potatoes, as if one heavenly starch alone would be too stingy. Hello, and welcome to Carb-land! Given enough of such bread, you'd be hard-pressed not to mop up every smear of creamy lamb korma or palak paneer, served in beautiful copper chafing dishes. It's enough to make you forget that spinach is good for you — but then, anything doused in cream, loaded with cashews and almonds, and finished with clarified butter would have to be, wouldn't it? At this family-run restaurant, a pleasant, long room filled with Indian families divvying up the dosas, you'll find yourself eating across a menu that ranges from coast to coast of the Indian subcontinent: flaky samosas, idlis and vadas, potato croquettes, skillets of tandoori shrimp with vegetables emitting clouds of sizzle, fish moli, and much more at very bearable prices.
A memorable New Yorker cartoon: Couple sitting at a restaurant table. Woman says to her companion, "If I go for the bread, stab my hand." There's no denying the stuff at India Palace -- it comes straight out of the tandoor, steaming and fragrant with ginger, cumin, and coriander, or as puffs of warm air bounded by gossamer crusts, and goes into a "mixed basket" ($5.99) -- puri, roti, chapati, naan, all glistening with ghee. Or as aloo paratha, a pillow stuffed with potatoes, as if... More »
Spicy food has lots of benefits for hulking humans. That's just one reason grown-ups acquire a taste not only for gin but also dark coffee and Tabasco sauce. The plants we think of as aromatic, that we use to liven up our dinners, contain... More »
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