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Starchy sounding, and located in the loft-land of wealthy Tribeca, the Harrison might be a restaurant you"d instinctively avoid, or take your parents to, but only if they were paying. Quite contrary to these assumptions, the restaurant hopped on the farmers market bandwagon early on, and the cooking of chef Amandan Freitag is often a delight. Start with the sweet-corn flan, which wiggles seductively in front of you before you even bite into its creamy goodness. Oven-roasted sardines and a novel summer-squash carpaccio are similarly desirable apps. For entrees, check out the trout, which comes wrapped in bacon, or, for organ fanciers, the liver and onions, the former still pink in the middle, the latter nicely caramelized. Desserts are fab, too, but the food is so rich, you won"t have room.
The buzz has bounced back and forth across downtown all season, and as you step inside the restaurant, a complete stranger might even turn to you and mouth the words "fried clams." It is in Clamville that the almost stuffy THE HARRISON has most distinguished itself, with a plethora of perfectly fried shellfish interleaved with fried parsley and sided with a magnificent lemon aioli that knocks the clams into orbit., More »
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