The Forge Restaurant/Wine Bar

The Forge is as famous as any South Florida restaurant not named Joe's Stone Crab. After a yearlong, $10 million renovation, the museum-like mahogany interior has been lightened and brightened to invigorating effect, and admired local chef Dewey LoSasso has taken over the kitchen. If the revamped décor doesn't have you convinced things have changed, maybe seeing a quinoa pancake with fig marmalade on the menu will. Or a po'boy plump with crisply fried oysters plunked into a mini hoagie roll. Or a lobster peanut butter and jelly sandwich ? crust-less brioche filled with lobster between sweet onion marmalade and coarsely ground, chili-spiced peanut butter. This clearly ain't your papa's Forge, yet the six cuts of proffered beef remain the most sought-after entrées ? none more so than the Super Steak, a 16-ounce, 21-day-aged, oak-grilled Prime New York strip. Double-cut Colorado lamb chops were delicious too, as were two halves of a spice-rubbed duck that all but burst with juicy flavor. Local mutton snapper papillote-style, with smoky tomato sauce, is the most interesting of the six seafood selections. An Enomatic system of wine-by-the-glass allows customers to purchase one-, three-, or five-ounce pours from a choice of 80 bottles from the restaurant's vaunted cellar collection. Desserts are designed by Malka Espinel, who for years excelled as Johnny Vinczencz's pastry chef; try one of the seven soufflés. We found too many kinks in the execution, but there is no denying that the Forge is back.

• Cuisine(s): American, Contemporary, Steakhouse

  Hours: Sun 11am-3pm, Sun-Thu 6pm-12am, Fri-Sat 6pm-1am

  Price: $$$$

  Payment Types: All Major Credit Cards

• Attire: Dressy

  Features: Banquet Facilities, Business Dining, Patio/Sidewalk Dining, Private Party, Takeout, Wheelchair Accessible

  Serving: Brunch, Dinner

  Entertainment: DJs

• Alcohol: Full bar

  Reservations: Accepted, Required, Online Reservations Available

  Parking: Valet