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This dark corner bar specializes in retro cocktails at retro prices, and, believe us, they're strong. What comes as a bigger surprise is the bar food that issues from the kitchen via Pies 'N' Thighs veteran Stephen Tanner. Sure he's got a great fried chicken sandwich, but even more impressive is the compact hamburger, a simple assemblage of great ground meat, raw onions, mayo, lettuce, and tomato, and little else. There are often tacos and a green-chile pozole - though note that the menu continues to evolve. Then there are a few farmers' market plates that include such things as ramps, asparagus, baby lettuces, and organic eggs, depending on season. This is bar food? You wonder as you eat them.
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema has a stiff drink and the usual "retro-Southern-locavoric-hash-house fare" at the Commodore in Williamsburg. Sarah DiGregorio chews on some raw tripe and grills... More »
Outside: the kind of anonymous corner bar where -- were it not in your neighborhood -- you might hesitate to enter. This week Counter Culture examines the Commodore, the conjoinment of a bar intent o... More »
'Hey, this looks like my dad's rec room," said my date, scanning the darkened premises as we entered the Commodore. "Danish modern hanging lamps and padded bar stools with backs, beamed ceiling, a circular booth in the corner, and a bar as long... More »
Restaurants and bars, they come and they go. Here are a few making their debuts and bowing out this week. The Doghouse Saloon on the Lower East Side has closed temporarily for renovations. The bar is... More »
It's not a grandiose burger, by any means. The meat probably doesn't total more than a quarter-pound; in fact, the whole thing--bun, patty, and all--forms a compact mass. But the hamburger at The Commodore is supremely flavorful, sourced from free-range Angus at an upstate farm and cooked to a turn so it's still pink in the middle. Garnishes include lettuce, raw onions, tomatoes, and mayo--with no fussy sauces and no funny toppings. This is what a burger would taste like if... More »
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