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Blue Fish, one outpost of a Texas sushi chain, is not a perfect restaurant. It can be a good restaurant if you order carefully and pay attention to the specials and a bad restaurant if you make a mistake with your cocktails or order the "specialty" rolls. Choose your sushi exactingly from a big menu of raw fish: sea eel; luscious uni topped with a couple of raw quail eggs; creamy, glistening slices of kampachi over vinegared rice; toothsome octopus sliced thin and blushing at the margins like wild roses; silvery pink sea bream. Let them know you're serious: Order whole aji as sashimi, and after you've picked it clean, they'll take it away, flash-fry it, and return it so you can snack on the salty, crunchy bones, head, and tail. Unconventional is the operative way to go here.
I'm not eating any more tuna. That's right. No more blathering in this column about that unctuous piece of bluefin toro I had at Salvatore's Sushi Shack; no more blissed-out descriptions of the perfectly seared slab of big-eye at Bistro du... More »
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