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The ambitious and expensive seafood restaurant strives to use only sustainable catch, which is a laudable goal. Via Chef Joe Isidori, who used to work in Vegas, the crudo starters are astonishingly tasty, little artistic compositions in which raw fish plays a co-equal role with other ingredients. There's one that features whorls of farm-raised kampachi mounted on cubes of orange melon and green jicama. Raw oysters sail in mounded with science-chef foam that looks like something scooped out of the ocean. There are amuses and palate cleansers galore, making you feel pampered in the ship's-cabin interior, and main courses run to soft-shell crabs from Florida, Montauk mackerel, and, best of all--crispy branzino, a farm-raised Mediterranean fish served with a tart pink Romesco sauce.
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