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Some of the best Thai food in San Francisco is served in this modest Tenderloin corner establishment, which combines elements of a modern urban bistro (stylish metal-topped tables, abstract paintings) with a grab-and-go Thai dive (inexpensive dishes served with blinding speed). There's an Isaan bent to Thai House Express's food, which shows up an engagingly odorific bamboo shoot salad with an electric lime and fish-sauce dressing, as well as several varieties of larb - duck is the most memorable - tossed with onions and fistfuls of herbs. Of course, all the American-approved classics are there, but also tender sautéed squid, slippery rad nah noodles with a gravy you doctor up with the fixings on the table, and the stupendous kao ka moo, anise-scented pork leg stew.
When it comes to Thai food in San Francisco, the crunch of the rice powder, the lime-infused spice of a dipping sauce, or the chewiness of a pad see ew noodle seem somehow difficult to replicate outside of the Tenderloin. It's time to kiss the... More »
When it comes to Thai food in San Francisco, I am first and foremost Team Tenderloin. The crunch of the rice powder, the lime infused spice of a dipping sauce or the chewiness of a pad see ew noodle s... More »
Something recently came into my mailbox that seemed eerily apt, seeing as I was thinking about Chinese and Thai food: a press release whose headline read "2005 Poised to Be Year of the Asian Cuisine, According to New Report." The fortuitous... More »
Thai House Express 901 Larkin (at Geary), 441-2248 The beautifully conceived dishes that come out of the open kitchen here at blinding speed (hence "Express") would do honor to much fancier surroundings -- and prices. The setting does have its charms (the metal-topped tables, blond wood banquette, and abstract paintings read urban bistro rather than inexpensive ethnic dive), but the real draw at this brightly lit corner spot is the food: wonderful salads of shredded green papaya or... More »
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