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This tiny four-table cafe may well be Houston's only authentic outpost of Puerto Rican cooking. Yes, the signboard menu still offers up the basic burger fix, but smart customers know to look for the chalkboard with the Puerto Rican specialties of the day. Odd hours (opens at 11 a.m. and closes at 6 p.m.) do little to prevent a steady stream of Houston's Caribbean Hispanics from making their way in. Portions are generous, prices low, and the posters of travel to Puerto Rico a bonus.
It's easy to call the bacalao ($8.95), or salt cod, served at Tex Chick [712 1/2 Fairview, (713)528-4708] the best in town, because it's the only one in town. Tex Chick is also the only Puerto Rican restaurant in Houston -- at least the only one... More »
Teo and Carmen Gonzalez, the sixtysomething owners of Tex Chick, tell an interesting tale of how they ended up running their tiny, homey restaurant on Fairview. It begins, as do so many immigrant stories, with the first frightening move to... More »
by Katharine ShilcuttThe bacalao y mofongo on my plate at Tex-Chick is a brilliant jumble of fall colors: ruby red, auburn, burnt orange and bright gold. A dish originating in Portugal, the bacalao -- chipped pieces of salted and dried codfish -- ring the mound of mofongo like Matisse's colorful dancers. And the sturdy mofongo, that pile of yellow plantains and crumbs of bacon, rises from between them with the promise of a transporting experience ahead.Where do you want to... More »
It's called mofongo; that's Puerto Rican for a great plantain dish. Don't go looking for a "heart-healthy" sign on the menu for this one, and once you read the list of ingredients, you'll understand why. A mortar is filled with garlic, chicharrón (the fatty, crispy kind, not pork rinds), olive oil and plantains, then the ingredients are ground together with a pestle until they're well incorporated. The resulting mass is shaped into a ball, which is then fried. The result is a crispy, heavy, po... More »
The mom-and-pop team of Teo and Carmen Gonzales has been running the funky-looking Tex Chick restaurant since 1982. The food is a schizoid mix of burgers, chicken-fried steaks, tacos and other Tex-Mex dishes, along with the only Puerto Rican food to be found in Houston. The mix owes itself to some shrewd thinking on the part of the owners, who bought a going concern and decided not to change the menu but rather add to it. Still, the food that makes the Gonzaleses beam with pride is that of... More »
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