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A few months after JuanCarlos Wong opened a Las Tortugas franchise in a mega-strip mall that houses a Rancho Liborio mercado, he closed the franchise -- only to reopen it as Teleras, a name that reflects the flat, oval, soft-crusted Mexican bread used to make tortas, which is exactly what Wong features at his diminutive storefront. The handwritten chalkboard menu lists nearly twenty tortas, including the la mamalona, which comes heaped with breaded steak, hot dogs, pork chops, ham, chorizo, chicken, Oaxacan cheese, pineapple, frijoles refritos, avocado, onions, tomatoes, a smear of chipotle mayonnaise and whatever else you want lobbed between the two slices of bread. But it's the la poblano torta, offering nubs of impossibly tender chicken slicked with a terrifically smoky mole, that really separates his joint from the competition -- that, and the fact that nothing aside from the refried beans and the pickled jalapenos comes from a can.
The chalkboard menu at this sparsely decorated strip-mall temple to tortas lists nearly two-dozen manifestations of the celebrated Mexican sandwich, including la mamalona, a hedonistic beast heaped with breaded steak, hot dogs, pork chops, ham, chorizo, chicken, Oaxacan cheese, pineapple, frijoles refritos, avocado, onions, tomatoes, a smear of chipotle mayonnaise (whew!) and whatever else you want lobbed between two slices of dense, house-baked bread. But it's the much smaller la poblana... More »
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